My questions are what should be hot when, and direction of current flow. These are questions about wires coming off the ignition switch. Okay.have a few questions before I go poking around again. And I hope this made some sense lol.Īnd where is Chump? Did someone give him the week off? If anyone can walk me through this I'd appreciate it. It's when it goes to the charging system that gets confusing-fusable links, shunts, and splices. Wire "J 10 12PK" (pink wire) comes off the switch and goes to charging system. switch, with the black w/red tracer (D20 12BK/RD) and pink wires is diagram 4 of 8. You'll see wire J10 12PK on the right w/ a note that says "to ignition switch." Follow it, and you'll see where I'm talking about. If anyone has the Haynes manual on this truck, the diagram I'm referring to is "Typical 1985 through 1988 wiring diagram (6 of 8)." There is a drawing of the VR in the diagram on the lower left of the box. I can find where it goes out the bulkhead, but I'm confused about after that. I noticed that the black wire is opposite the pink, and they share one of the OFF/RUN/START controls in the switch. Like Scott, I don't have any power at the fuse bar (black wire w/red tracer coming out of the switch) for the heater control. I have plenty of voltage coming in to the switch on the red wire but nothing else aside from the flashers and two bars on the fusebox. Haynes says the pk and the red are for START/RUN. I think the problem is in the same area though, and I think it has to do with the pink wire coming off/going to the ignition switch. It shows a wire going to the "ammeter cluster." The ammeter is part of the circuit board. Okay, I pulled the instrument cluster and all I found was a severed wire that goes to the printed circuit board. I unhooked the cable, though my pointer fell off a while ago. Before with the stock regulator they would blink maybe once every thirty to forty seconds apart. My directional signals actually blink now. Big difference when running any accessories under a charging load. I also recently replaced my stock voltage regulator with the Mopar Blue regulator which is a constant 13.5 volts. I have not found another gauge as of yet so I jumped a wire from the positive post on the alternator to the positive battery post and I am now charging at 14.6 volts. After this nightmare, I went to the dash cluster and removed the cluster and Bingo I found the problem, Broken connection post in Ammeter gauge. Started unwrapping the wiring harness checking each and every connector in the engine bay, they all looked good, cleaned and greased all connections. I went through the electrical system replacing the Starter, Alternator, Battery, Voltage Regulator, Ballast Resistor, still no improvements. I was only getting 12.5 volts at the battery and when I ran my car at night with the headlights on they would get very dim and when I stepped on the brake, the car would die and not restart.
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